Heart of the Celts

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Materials Needed

Yarn yardage is an estimate based on the project as I needed it for the pillow size I chose. My pillow from side to side (not diagonal) was approximately 19 inches.

350 yds of Main Color (MC - The white in the chart - this is called out in the box that the row number resides in).

350 yds of Contrasting Color (CC - The grey in the chart - this is also called out in the box that the row number resides in.)

1 crochet hook (recommended 3.5mm)

A pillow. A new one, and old one, an ugly one, a dirty one. You just need a square pillow.

If you want to create a pillow cover that can be removed for washing, you will also need the following. (you don't need to have amazing sewing skills to do this!!!!)

A zipper about 4" longer than the edge of the pillow. (I used a cut to size zipper and I did not secure either end due to the construction of the pillow it was unneeded).

Scissors

A needle and thread in a color that will match the yarn you are using.

Skill Level

Intermediate (although if you are a confident beginner I wouldn't say you shouldn't give this a try!

Before you begin...

Reminder, this project is worked using the overlay mosaic crochet technique. I do not teach the technique in this post, you do need a basic understanding before you proceed. Youtube is chock full of wonderful videos, I also have a few HERE.

You will need to be mindful of your personal gauge, your pillow size, and your goals for this project. Some of the decisions are on you - I can only take you so far!

I found a really ugly pillow I was tired of looking at. I measured it from side to side and found that it was about 19 inches wide. I have ordered pillow covers in the past and I have ordered the exact size needed and every time I found that it was just a little too small so, I knew that for this project I was going to crochet it just a little bit bigger than the dimension I was looking for. So, I chose 19" as my goal dimension.

I chose to use a DK weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook. My personal gauge for a 4" square (a square that is created in crochet rows, not working in the round like this project), is 15 stitches per row, 14 rows high. I had confidence I would be able to make the entire project and I would probably need to add a couple rows for a border (which is exactly how it went).

If you need more information on gauge swatches (or almost anything crochet related) go to page 24 of THIS document.

Reading the chart.

The chart is written in the typical overlay mosaic crochet fashion using X markers to define where you will work a double crochet front loop only. The bold boxes you see on either side of the chart are equal to one corner stitch (each corner has two).

Please read the notes in the written section to understand how, and where to work your join at the end of each row.

Abbreviations

Written = scblo, Chart = empty box. This is when you work one single crochet into the back loop of the stitch below.

Written = dcflo, Chart = X. This is when you work a double crochet into the front loop of the stitch two rows below. (You know it is two rows below because you will be working into a stitch of the same color as the yarn you are working.

The color yarn you are working will be noted in the numbered box that follows the diagonal up the right side of the chart.

Written = dcRflo, Chart = \. This is when you work a double crochet at an angle. To find the location, identify where you would work a dcflo, then count two stitches to the right, this is the location.

Written = dcLflo, Chart = /. This is the same as the right, only in the left direction.

Written = dcRlfo dcflo dcLflo TOG, Chart = \X/. This is when you work a combination stitch which I am not going to type out but I have a video to show you!

Instructions

First thing is first. The first few rows will probably feel weird and annoying. Once you get to row 4 or 5 you will have it completely and be ready to cruise on through. So, just go a little slow those first few and it will speed right up after that!

Row 1 (CC): chain 4, join to first chain with invisible stitch.

Laying your second color over your hook (leave a long tail hanging to the right), pull through once. Then chain three. One for the end of each row and two to start each row.

In row 2, you are working one sc into each of the four chains with two chain stitches in between for the corners. Do NOT work through the center of the circle, you must work into the back loop of each chain as best as you can. There is some estimation in this round because it is very hard to see those four tiny chains. Just do your best to leave a front loop open under each single crochet.

Note: The first scblo of the second row will be worked into the same chain you just worked your join into.

Row 2 (MC): (2 ch, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join (see images below), change color, ch 1.

Things will get a lot easier from here on out. Things to note:

You will always be joining on the corners, this is so that the pattern is easier to write/read.

When working into the chain corners always work through the back loop so that the front loop is available for later rows.

If you have a tighter tension, you can work your invisible join into the first chain of 3 chains that began the row. If your tension tends to be looser, I would recommend trying to work your invisible join into the second chain of the 3 chains that began the row. This is to create a cleaner corner (not leaving spaces for the other color to peek through so much). From here on out I will add images every 5 rows.

Your first pattern stitch of each row from here on out will be worked into the third chain that began the row (the long grey arrow in the image above), and the last pattern stitch of each row should fall on the first corner chain of the next corner (the left most grey arrow on the image above).

Row 3 (CC): (2 ch, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 4 (MC): (2 ch, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 5 (CC): (2 ch, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 3, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Note, row 6 is the first time you will see a double crochet in the corner. This is to be worked into the same front loop as the double crochet next to it. See image above.

Row 6 (MC): (2 ch, 2 dcflo, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, 1 scblo, 2 dcflo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 7 (CC): (2 ch, 3 scblo, (1 dcflo 1 scblo)x 2, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 8 (MC): (2 ch, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 9 (CC): (2 ch, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, (1 dcflo, 1 scblo)x 2, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 10 (MC): (2 ch, 2 dcflo, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo, 2 dcflo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 11 (CC): (2 ch, (3 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 12 (MC): (2 ch, 5 scblo, 3 dcflo, 13 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 13 (CC): (2 ch, 5 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, 11 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 14 (MC): (2 ch, 6 dcflo, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo, 11 dcflo, 1 scblo, 2 dcflo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 15 (CC): (2 ch, 7 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, 11 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 16 (MC): (2 ch, 9 scblo, 3 dcflo, 13 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 17 (CC): (2 ch, (1 dcflo, 3 scblo)x 3, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, (1 dcflo, 3 scblo)x 3, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 18 (MC): (2 ch, 2 dcflo, (1 scblo, 3 dcflo)x 3, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, (1 scblo, 3 dcflo)x 3, 1 scblo, 2 dcflo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 19 (CC): (2 ch, 3 scblo, 1 dcflo, 5 scblo, 1 dcRflo dcLflo TOG, 5 scblo, (1 dcflo, 1 scblo)x 2, 1 dcflo, 5 scblo, 1 dcRflo dcLflo TOG, 5 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 20 (MC): (2 ch, 4 dcflo, (1 scblo, 5 dcflo)x 2, (1 scblo, 1 dcflo)x 2, (1 scblo, 5 dcflo)x 2, 1 scblo, 4 dcflo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 21 (CC): (2 ch, 7 scblo, 1 dcRflo, 7 scblo, 1 dcLflo, 2 scblo, 1 dcflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcRflo, 7 scblo, 1 dcLflo, 7 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 22 (MC): (2 ch, 8 dcflo, 1 scblo, 7 dcflo, (1 scblo, 3 dcflo)x 2, 1 scblo, 7 dcflo, 1 scblo, 8 dcflo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 23 (CC): (2 ch, 11 scblo, 1 dcRflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcLflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcLflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcRflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcRflo, 3 scblo, 1 dcLflo, 11 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 24 (MC): (2 ch, 12 dcflo, (5 scblo, 3 dcflo)x 2, 5 scblo, 12 dcflo)X 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 25 (CC): (2 ch, 19 scblo, 1 dcLflo, 1 scblo, 5 dcflo, 1 scblo, 1 dcRflo, 19 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 26 (MC): (2 ch, 1 scblo, 19 dcflo, 9 scblo, 19 dcflo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 27 (CC): (2 ch, 23 scblo, 1 dcRflo dcflo dcLflo TOG, 3 scblo, 1 dcRflo dcflo dcLflo TOG, 23 scblo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

Row 28 (MC): (2 ch, 24 dcflo, 1 scblo, 3 dcflo, 1 scblo, 24 dcflo)x 4, invisible join, change color, ch 1.

To zoom in on the chart hit your control button and scroll with your mouse.

From here on out, you will need to decide how you would like to work your edge to meet the size requirements of your pillow if it is not already the size you needed. I decided on an extension of the background color, ending it with two dcflo rows of the contrasting color. This got me to the 19 inches I needed to fit my pillow.

I chose a long zipper that I can cut to size. Whatever zipper you choose, place it face up on your table with it half way unzipped.

Place each of your two sides on either side of the zipper with the right side up. I chose to line my edge up with the bottom of the zipper teeth. I then used some pins to pin it in place, and then worked my way from one side to the other sewing it in place.

I am no seamstress so – I did my best! Just some large stitches (I don’t know their name) holding the fabric in place. When I was done I did pull it taught so that the stitches were not loose.

I then repeated on the other side.

Once this was complete, I made sure my zipper was at least half way open, put the two right sides of my fabric together and began using a slip stitch to close the two sides together. The reason you have to leave your zipper half way open is that this is working it inside out and once you are done, you will need to be able to flip it right side out!

I then tightened up any areas I felt needed a few extra stitches, tied off and sewed in any tails that were left over and wala!

If you make this project please tag me at @mosaichooker on IG or Facebook!